TALLINN – THE CAPITAL OF ESTONIA

It is supposed that the title “Tallinn” in Estonian originates from words “taani linn” (Danish town), “tali linn” (winter city) or “talu linn” (house, mansion-castle). The core “linna” means the same as “-grad” in Russian or “-burg” in German – in the beginning denoting “a fortress” but now used for forming names of the cities.

The first mention of Tallinn, as is believed, dates back to 1154 when Arab geographer Al Idresi described in his work “The entertainment of a person longing to sojourn and travel in remote places” a city named Kolyvan (spelled Quoluwany). The time of penetration of this toponym into oral tradition is unknown; in ancient Russian written sources it appears in 1223 and stops to be used only in XVIII century.

In “the Chronicle of Livonia” by Henry the Latvian (first half of XIII century) written in Latin Scandinavian name Lindanise (Danish Lyndanisse; Swedish Lindanäs), which, according to one of the versions viewed by scientists, means Danish (danise) city (or fortress – lin). According to the same version from the cores forming the word Lyndanisse Estonian name of the city Tallinn (Taanilin, Talyna) first mentioned in written sources in 1536 originates. According to another version, it is also possible that the word linda, which later transformed into linna could have meant “city” or “fortress.” The foundation for this theory is presence in the Vodsky language (close to Estonian) the word lidna having exactly the same meaning. According to this version, the core nise might mean “peninsula” just like “niemi” in the ancient Finnish name of Tallinn Kesoniemi. The Copli peninsula in the northern part of Tallinn is presupposed here, from where boats of fishermen sailed off. In Russian sources the word Lyndonisse transformed into Ledenets, although another variant Lidenes was also used.

Later the Scandinavians and Germans called the city Revel (in the Russian Empire the official name until 1917); it originates from ancient Estonian place-name Rävala in the XIII century being the name of a county that included the territory of today’s Harjumaa county and part of the district of Liaenemaa. The name Rävala originates from Rebala village in the region of Iyelyakhtme of the Harjumaa County.

In 1997, the historical part of Tallinn – the Old City – was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The unique medieval architecture and unrivalled spirit of the Old Times, which other capitals of the Northern Europe in many aspects have lost, makes the Old City significant in a special way.

In Tallinn as one of the cities of the medieval Europe that have been preserved almost intact a network of streets and boundaries of districts that formed in the period from XI to XV centuries have not been altered in any way.

Due to mighty fortified constructions, the Old City was able to spare itself from big destructions in the course of attacks of the enemies’ armies. The stone houses mainly built here stood against frequent fires. Big building up projects also did not touch the Old City, which helped maintain its architectural value.

As of today, almost all the most important administrative and sacred constructions of the Old City have been preserved in their original appearance; many private houses have also survived throughout the centuries as well as hangars, warehouses that used to belong to renowned city dwellers and merchants.

Beginning of XV – middle of XVI centuries is the golden age of ancient Tallinn: the city was part of the Hanseatic Union and played an important role in the Baltic Sea Region. Economical prosperity of those times enabled not only to significantly establish the city borders but also created all the grounds for active development of arts – creational architectural and artistic treasures.

The City Hall Square. From of old – even from the time when the City Hall was not constructed – has been used for trade. All kinds of festivities as well as executions of the city’s criminals were held here.

Today’s City Hall Square, especially in the summer months, gets filled with street cafes. Outdoor concerts and craftsmen fairs are held here. In wintertime, in keeping of a tradition that exists since 1441, the City Hall Square is decorated with a huge Christmas tree. It stands here for a long time, a month and a half, while a beautiful Christmas Fair rustles and larks around it where one can buy wonderful gifts for the holiday season and enjoy an excellent Christmas atmosphere.

In summertime the City Hall Square is the main center of the Days of the Old City – an annually held peculiar medieval carnival in modern style. During these days such ancient traditions as festive parades, knight tilting matches, parrot shooting contests and elections of the “May Duke” are revived, while the streets and yards of the Old City get filled with music, dancing, fairs, theater performances and exhibitions.

Tallinn’s City Hall is the oldest building of a medieval City Hall that is preserved in Northern Europe.

The first written mention about Tallinn’s City Hall dates back to 1322, and there are all reasons to believe that in its earliest days it stood exactly where it stands now. Its today’s appearance the City Hall obtained as a result of a fundamental rebuilding in 1402-1404, so in 2004 it celebrated its 600-year anniversary.

Tallinn’s City Hall, in which the magistrate held its meetings, was the real heart of the city as well as a representative construction where throughout the ages important issues of the city life got solved. The first mention of the Tallinn magistrate can be found in a charter of Danish king Eric V as of May 15, 1248, in which the monarch orders the Lubeck law be given to Tallinn.

The members of the magistrate – ratmans – held their meetings in a hall on the second floor of the City Hall; today festive receptions and concerts are held here, while a three-nave hall in the basement of the City Hall is used as a facility for exhibitions.

But the most famous element of Tallinn’s City Hall building made of traditional Estonian building material – limestone – is the weather cock “Old Thoomas” that crowns the tower – today’s symbol of the Estonian capital.

According to a legend…

Every spring in medieval Tallinn on the square near the Big Sea Gates contests of the best archers of the city were held. The sharpest archer who was capable of hitting the target – a wooden little figure of a parrot set on the tip of a high pole was given a silver cup. And one day when distinguished knights lined up and were just about to shoot, having pulled their bows, the parrot unexpectedly fell down, having been hit by somebody’s arrow.

The unknown archer turned out to be an ordinary Tallinn’s youth – a poor man named Thoomas. The joker was severely scolded and made to put the target back on its place. But the news had already been spread throughout the entire Tallinn, and Thoomas’ mother prepared herself for the worst… Fortunately, events went in a different course – the youth was not punished but offered a job of a city guard, which in those times was a big privilege to a poor man.

Later Thoomas exhibited heroism many times in battles of the Livonia War and fully justified the honor given to him. And having become old, he grew big moustache and began to strikingly resemble the brave warrior rising on the City Hall Tower. Since that time the weather cock on the City Hall is called “the Old Thoomas.”

The City Hall Drugstore – is one of the oldest drugstores in Europe that operates to this day.

The drugstore on the corner of the City Hall square is first mentioned in chronicles in 1422, but, according to opinions of historians, it is much older. In middle ages the drugstore was subject to the magistrate; not only different remedies were sold in it but also other necessary goods. Throughout the past centuries the appearance of this honorable building has changed little, and its walls breathe with the spirit of centuries-long oldness still to this very day. Although now one is offered here not a pulvis made of bats and snake skin, but a glass of Claret tinctured with spices that was very popular in middle ages. It seems that they have kept the secret of making good potions in the City Hall drugstore.

Oleviste Church is the highest building in medieval Europe. The first mention of this church built in Gothic style dates from 1267. We do not know the exact time when it was constructed and since when it began to operate; but, according to historians, on this spot – a trading site of Scandinavian merchants – a church stood as early as in XII century.

The Oleviste church bears its name after Norwegian king Olav II Haraldson. Besides, saint Olav was honored as the patron of seamen.

In the beginning of XVI century, the height of the Oleviste reached 159 meters, which allowed it to become then the highest construction in the world. The church spire shooting up skywards was seen from afar and served as a good landmark for seamen. But the striking height also was in itself a serious threat: the church was hit by lightning eight times, and three times during thunderbolts it caught on devastating fires. According to historical sources, the fiery blaze could be seen even from the Finnish coast.

Another interesting fact related to the history of that church is mentioned by famous chronicler Baltasar Russov. In 1547, rope walkers came to Tallinn. They pulled a very long rope between the Oleviste and a city wall and, to the city dwellers’ greatest surprise, began to perform breathtaking stunts on the tight rope.

According to a legend…

In ancient times, in order to attract merchants to Tallinn, the city fathers decided to build the highest church in the world. But where can one find a master who would undertake such a difficult task? And then a tall stranger came out of nowhere and promised to build that kind of church.

Everything would have been fine, but he asked for his work so much gold that it could not be found in the entire Tallinn… Then the mysterious master suggested this: he would agree to build the church free of charge but only if the city dwellers would be able to guess what his name was. The stranger built fast and did not speak with anybody. When construction was almost over, the city fathers were greatly disturbed and decided to send a spy who would discover the stranger’s name. The spy quickly found the house of the builder, waited until evening, sneaked to a window and heard a mother sing a lullaby to her baby, “Sleep, little baby, sleep tight. Olev will come back home soon with a bag full of gold.” This is how Tallinn dwellers found out the name of the mysterious stranger.

Legend also has it, that when the builder was standing on the very tip of the church spire mounting the cross, one of the city dwellers called out to him, “Olev, can you hear me, Olev? Why, your cross has tilted!” After hearing his name Olev all of a sudden lost his balance and crashed down from on high to the ground to death. Here the town dwellers saw a frog jump out of his mouth, and after that a snake crept out of there too… It turned out the dark powers had been somehow involved in it. But the church was still named after its mysterious builder.

The Oleviste church was built in XIII century and for a long time was considered to be the highest construction in the world. Even today its spire, 124 meters high, looks extremely impressive, and the church became one of Tallinn’s symbols. In summertime you can make a head-spinning ascent up a spiral staircase to the viewing site in the church tower and enjoy a view of ancient Tallinn.

The Tallinn City Wall fortified by defensive towers by XVI century turned into one of the strongest and safest fortification constructions of Northern Europe.

Medieval fortifications erected around the city by the end of XIII century turned it into an unapproachable fortress. By XVI century, these fortifications in their strength were almost unrivalled in Northern Europe. The thickness of the city wall with 46 mighty defensive towers reached three meters; height – sixteen meters; while the length was four kilometers.

A part of the wall, two kilometers long with 26 defensive towers, is preserved to this day.

You can even ascend the city wall: near the crossing of Suur-Kloostri street and Väike-Kloostri street one can rise up Nunnatorne Tower and from there walk along a former battle way to Saunatorn and Kuldialatorn towers.

Kick-in-de-Kurk is the mightiest gun tower in Northern Europe of XVI century.

According to historians, Kick-in-de-Kurk tower built in the second half of XV century was at one time the mightiest gun tower along the entire coast of the Baltic Sea. Its diameter reached 17 meters; height – 38 meters; the walls were four meters thick.

From the upper floors of the tower not only the rears of the enemy’s troops could be perfectly seen but also kitchens of Tallinn’s housewives. From this the name of the tower derives, which in Lower Saxon means “Look into a kitchen!”

During the Livonian war (1558-1583) the tower was seriously damaged but was still preserved. Afterwards it was rebuilt several times and until XX century was used as a gunpowder warehouse. Today Kick-in-de-Kurk is fully restored – now it looks exactly like it did in XVII century.

Now in the tower a regular exposition is opened telling about the history of Tallinn’s origin and most important military actions of that distant epoch, of which we are reminded by stone and cast iron cannon balls of the artillery of Russian tsar Ivan IV stuck deep in the thick walls.

The Virgins Tower (Neitsitorn) is a medieval jail tower for ladies of easy virtue.

This tower was built in the second half of XIV century as the city wall was erected. Throughout the centuries that followed the Virgins Tower was many times seriously damaged and at restoration was each time rebuilt.

The Big Sea Gates and the Fat Margaret Tower were built for protection of the city from sea attacks; its another goal was to impress the oversea guests who arrived to Tallinn.

The Big Sea Gates located in the northern part of the city near the haven were built at the same time as the city wall was erected.

In the beginning of XVI century, near the gates during the rebuilding a gun tower with 155 gunfire holes was erected, which for its impressive size – diameter 25 meters and height 20 meters – was nicknamed “Fat Margaret.” For its log history the Fat Margaret was also used as a gun warehouse and a jail.

Today in the tower there is the Estonian Sea Museum that tells us about the history of sea navigation and fishing industry in Estonia. On the museum’s floors rare exhibits are displayed: ancient diving equipment and fishing instruments, finds from the bottom of the sea, a captain’s bridge of 1950 and many others. From a viewing point on the top of the tower one can enjoy a breathtaking view of the sea.

The Viruskie Gates were built in XIV century and remain to this day only in part.

The Viruskie Gates are situated in the eastern part of the City Wall. The main tower of the gates was built in 1345-1355. Today one can get through these gates to Viru Street with its numerous shops, restaurants and cafes, just a short walk away from the City Hall Square.

The Thoompea Castle is one of the oldest and most magnificent architectural complexes of Estonia.

The castle was built in XIII-XIV centuries on the steep slope of Thoompea Hill, 50 meters above the sea level. For centuries, the Thoompea Castle has always been one of the most majestic symbols of the ruling elite of Estonia, including that of foreign origin. Today the parliament of the Estonian Republic is located here.

In the end of XIV century, in the south-eastern part of the castle complex a high tower Long Herman was built. The tower owes its name to a fabulous hero of medieval legends Lange Hermann, which is translated from German as “a Long Soldier” or “Leader.” At that time the mightiest fortress tower had this name.

Today Estonia’s national flag is fluttering on top of the 48-meter Long Herman.

The Dome Cathedral is the oldest church of Tallinn. Today’s appearance of the Dome Cathedral is the result of numerous reconstructions. One day a wooden church stood on this site – historians believe that it was built in 1219, although the first written mention about it dates back to 1233. Ten years later construction of a stone building began. The cathedral’s tower belongs to the Baroque epoch, while its many chapels – to later architectural styles.

As for the interior decoration of the cathedral, here tombstones of XIII-XVIII centuries are worth your attention first of all as well as numerous noble men’s coats of arms and epitaphs dedicated to high-born men of XVII-XX centuries.

Among the celebrated people buried in the cathedral are famous Swedish commander Pontus Delagardi and his spouse Sofia Gullenhelm – daughter of Swedish King Johan III, Catherine the Great’s favorite, – admiral Samuel Graig as well as famous sea traveler, the man who headed up the first Russian expedition around the world, Adam Johan Von Kruzenshtern.

If you enter into the Dome Cathedral through the main entrance and take three steps towards the southern nave under your feet you will see a big stone plate with an inscription, “Otto Johan Tuve. The tomb of the owner of Edise, Vehena and Cohonu manors, AD1696.” As tradition has it, this Tuve was a real wastrel – he adored feasts with delicious food and wines, and that in a company of beautiful women. But when the time came to die, Tuve was seized with bitter repentance and asked to bury him near the threshold of the Dome Cathedral so that all God-fearing parish men as they prayed and bowed down at the entrance would also redeem his numerous sins…

The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is the biggest Orthodox cathedral in Tallinn with magnificent domes.

This magnificent, richly decorated Orthodox temple in the mixed style of later Historicism was built according to a design by famous Russian architect Mikhail Preobrazhensky in 1900 – at that time Estonia was part of Tsarist Russia. The cathedral is dedicated to Novgorod Prince Alexander Nevsky, who defeated Teutonic knights during the so-called Ice Battle on the Tchudskoye Lake on April 5 of 1242.

Before on this spot in front of the Thoompea Castle there used to be a beautiful square with a monument to Martin Luther. The cathedral is the most significant pattern of Orthodox sacred architecture in Tallinn and is maintained in a good condition. It possesses the strongest ensemble of church bells in the city. There are altogether eleven bells; the biggest of them weighs fifteen tons. Before a service begins, cathedral’s chimes hover over the city. It is also worth noting that the interior of the cathedral is richly ornamented with mosaics and icons.

The Dominican Monastery is the oldest monastery in the Lower City.

Dominicans founded their monastery in Tallinn in 1246. The most notable building in this typical monastery complex is St. Catherine Church built, as it is presumed, in the end of XIV century. In medieval Lower City it was unrivaled in its square. Since the early years of the monastery’s existence a school unofficially operated in it. The monastery building was many times rebuilt and enlarged; the last time it was done in XVI century.

Lutheran Reformation played a fatal role in the monastery’s destiny – in 1525 the city’s authorities forced the monks to leave Tallinn, and in 1531 in the desolated church a devastating fire broke out, after which only ruins remained of the building. Today only the western wall with two portals, part of the southern wall with fragments of three buttresses, window openings and a lower part of south-eastern tower as well as fragments of the northern wall remained of the monastery complex.

At present time, works by medieval stone carvers are exhibited here, exhibitions and concerts are held. Visitors with extra-sensorial capacities will probably take interest in an energetic pillar standing in the hall of the chapter.

The inner facilities of the Dominican Monastery that once included three architectural wings have a Latin name Claustrum. Only the eastern wing, in which there were bedrooms of monks, libraries, frater dining hall and the superior’s cell, remain to this day.

A mystical sensation is created by a so-called “energetic pillar” in the monastery basement. They say one can draw soul and physical powers out of it.

Katarina’s Lane – workshops of applied arts craftsmen in medieval interior. Katarina’s Lane connects Vene Street with Müürivahe Street. Along the Lane’s northern wall ruins of one of the walls of St. Catherine church rise; on its southern side there are facades of private houses of XV-XVII centuries. In 1595, this wonderful historical place was restored; at that, the restorers and builders managed to preserve the unique spirit of ancient times here.

The Niguliste Museum – three out of four most significant artistic works of medieval time that remained in Estonia to present day are kept here. This church built in XIII century one day was the center of religious life of the Lower City. Today it is a museum and a concert hall at the same time.

The Niguliste Church called so in honor of patron of all the sea men – St. Nicolas – was built by German merchants, who moved from Gotland Island to Tallinn. The church obtained its original appearance in XIII century and at that old time looked more like a fortress construction.

In the following centuries, the church buildings were many times rebuilt and added on. Late Gothic style Anthony chapel at the southern side of the church and the northern side chapel in the Renaissance style are worth your special attention. The Niguliste Church is the only sacred building in the Lower City, which never suffered devastation that was a typical part of Lutheran Reformation of 1523: a sly churchwarden ordered to pour lead into all the church locks, and the enraged crowd simply could not get in. In XX century, the Niguliste Church suffered a lot: first of an air bombing of Soviet aviation in the spring of 1944, and then from a big fire in 1982 right after restoration works had been completed.

The main chancel of the Niguliste was made in 1482 by a famous Lubeck master Hermen Rode, while the  altar of Virgin Mary of the end of XV century that belonged to the Brethren of the Black Heads – by an unknown author from a Dutch city Bruges. But, according to certain sources, the chancel was produced in the workshop of artist Hans Memling.

Pages: 1 2