SAINT PAUL’S CATHEDRAL IN LONDON

Saint Paul Cathedral

The St. Paul Cathedral in London is built on the spot where in Roman times a pagan temple to goddess Diana stood. As tradition has it, on its site the first Christian church of London was founded. But reliable historical authorities on the Saint Paul temple’s existence in London date only from the beginning of the seventh century (St. Paul was believed to be the patron and intercessor of the city).

The old St. Paul Cathedral, which burned down in 1666, is preserved only in numerous medieval pictures. The cathedral is a sophisticated combination of Norman, Roman and Gothic styles, since it was many times built and re-built after frequent fires from XI till XVI centuries.

It had the highest belfry in medieval Europe – 156 meters high. The now-existing building of the cathedral was erected in 1675-1710 by architect Christopher Wren. To provide means necessary for construction of the cathedral, an extra tax was introduced in England on coal brought into the country.

Wren had a difficult task: he needed not only to restore the burned construction, but also to create a new grandiose building, – the biggest Anglican temple in Europe that was supposed to rival with the biggest Catholic temple – the St. Peter Cathedral in Rome. The original design of the cathedral was conceived by Wren as a much simpler and grandiose one, but his pans were spoiled by interference of the clergy and kings Charles II and James II. Nevertheless, Wren succeeded in obtaining a permission to make changes to the approved design, which he to a large extent used: researchers with amazement note that the cathedral built by Wren has almost nothing to do with the original design.

The colossal building of the cathedral built by Christopher Wren stands on a hilltop and until recent times was the highest construction in London – its height being 111 meters. The cathedral does not get lost even among the modern multi-storey buildings of the city. One can imagine what an impression it made during the years when the highest building of London did not exceed the height of four floors!

In its today’s form the cathedral is characterized by strict deliberate proportions and harmony of architectural details. The St. Paul’s dome is one among the most perfect and famous dome constructions in Europe (along with St. Sofia in Constantinople, St. Peter Cathedral in Rome and Cathedral in Florence). And the St. Paul Cathedral a long time ago entered the history of English and World Art.

On a small square before the entrance to the cathedral a monument to Queen Ann is established; during her reign construction of the cathedral was completed. Today’s monument is a copy of the original construction replaced in 1886. The main, western façade of the cathedral is ornamented with a huge portico almost 30 meters high. The portico is two-leveled and has six pairs of columns in the upper row and four pairs of columns in the lower row. It is crowned with a fronton with a sculptural composition, “Conversion of Saul” (Saul is the name of Apostle Paul before his baptism) by sculptor Francis Bird. This is a comparatively rare monumental construction for England of the beginning of XVIII century.

On both sides of the portico two towers-belfries rise. They were erected in 1707-1708. In the right, southern tower the biggest bell of England – “the Big Paul” – is located, weighing 16 tons.

The length of the cathedral is 175.5 meters. Inside the cathedral is finished in Renaissance style, but its layout is Gothic, and it leaves an impression of some coldness and emptiness. But it is a common characteristic for protestant churches where, according to Protestant ritualism, there is neither luxurious molding, nor gilding, nor sculptures. This “dryness” of the inner decoration even caused Londoners in 1860 to eventually establish a special monetary fund for ornamentation of the St. Paul’s interior. On these means sculptures above “The Gallery of Whisper” were erected and mosaics were created that decorate the altar section and the space beneath the dome. The St. Paul’s merit is perfection of all the architectural forms and masterfully fulfilled details. In the cathedral one can see wonderful stone carving, magnificent azure grates of beaten iron. Wooden pews can be considered works of art made in the end of XVII century by English master Grinling Gibbons. They are characterized by the finest carving and high artistic perfection. The organ of the cathedral was made in 1694 and it is one of the best in England.

Numerous monuments on the tombstones of famous people located in the cathedra are of low artful value, the most interesting of them being an equestrian figure of Lord Wellington, the victor over Napoleon at Waterloo. On a staircase starting in the eastern corner of the southern wing of the cathedral one can ascend to a library located one level higher than the gallery of whisper; the words spoken here at one wall can be distinctly heard at the opposite wall of the gallery 32 meters away.

Higher still, around the foundation of the dome, Stone Gallery runs, and above it – Golden Gallery at the top of the dome, from where an amazing view on London can be seen.

The St. Paul’s dome rises on a high drum encircled by columns. The dome has a complex structure – it is threefold. From outside one can see only its outward lead lining, which rests on a wooden structure. This structure is supported by a brick cone that is fully hidden from spectators’ eyes, since another lining is beneath it – an inner dome playing the role of a ceiling. Such complicated structure safeguarded the dome’s stability proven throughout centuries. Even in the years of WWII, when German air bombs exploded around the cathedral and damaged its eastern part the dome survived. The painting of the dome was done in 1716-1719 by artist James Thornhill and is dedicated to the works of the Apostle Paul.

The crypt of the cathedral served as a place for burial of prominent people of England. Here among the buried ones are Admiral Nelson, Lord Wellington, landscape painter Turner, the first president of the Academy of Arts Joshua Reynolds, as well as the builder of the cathedral – architect Christopher Wren. On the tomb of the latter there is no tombstone. Instead, an epitaph carved on the wall says that the monument to the architect is “what you see around yourself” – that is, the St. Paul Cathedral itself.